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THE WORLD’S
HIGHEST
BAROLO
Serradenari,
the “peak” of the Barolo, is like a terrace overlooking the northwestern Italian
region of Piedmont. The view from here embraces the Alps from Liguria to Cervino,
with Mount Monviso sitting majestically in the horizon. Down below is the
renowned district of the Langhe, dear to food and wine lovers the world over.
The name of the
farmhouse, Serradenari, harks back to centuries ago, when the Black Death forced
the peasants of Barolo and La Morra to leave their lands and take refuge on the
crest, taking with them all their savings – hence, the name Serradenari, from
“Sara D’nè,” which in the local dialect means “sierra of money.”
In our days,
Giovanni Negri has turned Serradenari into a boutique winery where tradition and
modernity meet to produce a limited quantity of wine (30,000 bottles a year)
that is the fruit of careful selection, experimentation, and craftsmanship. |
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The
Diatto-Negri family has owned Serradenari since the late 19th century. The local
land register has a plan of the
farmhouse dated September 30, 1880, and signed “Ravinale Filippo, geometer at La
Morra.” The caption reads: “Serradenari,
where there is about five days’ worth of Barolo and Barbera.”
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The Diatto were
entrepreneurs in Turin, where they produced Italy’s first automobile in the late
1800s. Serradenari was their country estate.
Winemaking was a hobby for the Diattos. The Genesio family took care of the
vineyards at Serradenari, while the Diattos tended to the exportation of the
wine to New York.
Today,
just as of yore, the vineyards cover 55,600 square meters, almost 14 acres, of
land at altitudes varying from 450 meters (1,476 feet) to 530 meters (1,738
feet) above sea level. Serradenari’s are the highest altitude bunches of
Nebbiolo grapes in the Barolo district. They yield “the world’s highest Barolo.”
Meanwhile in the vineyards facing north, winemaker Roberto Cipresso is taking on
the international challenge for Pinot Noir Bourgogne. |
Serradenari
comprises also 7.5 hectares (18.5 acres) of woods inhabited by foxes, wild
boars, badgers, deer, hares, and
owls.
These woods are
known in the Langhe as the finest of truffle-grounds where the local “trifulau,”
or truffle hunters, come
with their dogs to comb for this elusively scented tuber.
Welcome to
Serradenari, then, where you will find open spaces and silence, vineyards and
woods, and time past and present.
   
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